Scary Stuff

“There are over 7,000 ingredients available to manufacturers for use in cosmetics and toiletries (including nearly 1,000 aromatic and perfume chemicals), of which more than a thousand are known to have harmful effects, and many of these are subject to some level of legal restriction. Another 900 ingredients may have been manufactured in such a way as to be potentially contaminated with cancer-causing chemicals”.

See also - Myths and Downright Lies

Taken from Cosmetics Unmasked by Dr Stephen and Gina Antczak

To be fair, the author quoted above – who is a chemist - also points out that a number of completely natural ingredients can be irritating to some people (although I have not spotted him saying that any cause cancer!) and, therefore, are not without their problems. This is true, but if you have sensitivities you will already know that some essential oils irritate and you can simply give them a miss.

The following list of commonly used chemical ingredients is not exhaustive, but goes some way to demonstrating how beauty products may be causing problems. Technically, beauty products are safe. The ingredients have to be approved by the EU or FDA (in the USA). Mostly we suffer more from marketing hype than specifically from these ingredients. But there is a very large question mark that hangs over the line of what constitutes a toxic overload and no-one seems to be able to answer why we are suffering such an increase in allergies, eczema and cancers.


2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, diazolidinyl urea, Imidazolidinyl Urea, DM hydantoin, Quaternium 15: These ingredients contain formaldehyde, may release formaldehyde, or may break down into formaldehyde. Formaldehyde may cause joint pain, skin reactions, allergies, depression, headaches, chest pains, ear infections, chronic fatigue, dizziness, and loss of sleep. Exposure may also irritate the respiratory system, trigger heart palpitations or asthma, and aggravate coughs and colds. Other possible side effects include weakening the immune system and cancer. They are well established as a primary cause of contact dermatitis. Two trade names for these chemicals are Germall II and Germall 115. Neither of the Germall chemicals have a good antifungal, and must be combined with other preservatives. Germall 115 releases formaldehyde at just over 10°. These chemicals are toxic. Some are actually a by-product of manufacture rather than added ingredients and can be found particularly in cheap imported brands – especially shampoo and conditioner.

Alcohol, Isopropyl: A very drying and irritating solvent and dehydrator that strips your skin's moisture and natural immune barrier, making you more vulnerable to bacteria, moulds and viruses. It is made from propylene, a petroleum derivative and is found in many skin and hair products, fragrance, antibacterial hand washes as well as shellac and antifreeze. It can act as a ‘carrier’ accelerating the penetration of other harmful chemicals into your skin. It may promote brown spots and premature aging of skin. A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients says it may cause headaches, flushing, dizziness, mental depression, nausea, vomiting, narcosis, anaesthesia, and coma. Fatal ingested dose is one ounce or less.


DEA (diethanolamine), MEA (Monoethanolamine), & TEA (triethanolamine): hormone-disrupting chemicals that can form cancer-causing nitrates and nitrosamines. These chemicals are already restricted in Europe due to known carcinogenic effects. In the United States however, they are still used despite the fact that Americans may be exposed to them 10-20 times per day with products such as shampoos, shaving creams and bubble baths. Dr. Samuel Epstein (Professor of Environmental Health at the University of Illinois) says that repeated skin applications of DEA-based detergents resulted in a major increase in the incidence of liver and kidney cancer. The FDA's John Bailey says this is especially important since “the risk equation changes significantly for children.”

Di-ethyl phthalate: Found in toothbrushes, car parts, tools, toys, food packaging, insecticides, mosquito repellents, aspirin and volatile components of cosmetics ie: perfumes, nail polishes and hair sprays. Has been linked to testicular cancer and cell mutation.

Di-n-butyl phthalate: Found in cellulose plastics, solvents for dyes, solvents for cosmetics (i.e., nail polish), food packaging, perfumes, skin emollients, hair spray, insect repellents.

FD&C Colour Pigments: Synthetic colours made from coal tar, containing heavy metal salts that deposit toxins onto the skin, causing skin sensitivity and irritation. Absorption of certain colours can cause depletion of oxygen in the body. Animal studies have shown almost all of them to be carcinogenic. Colorants marked with the FD&C prefix are suitable for cosmetics but not for food. Many are known to be a risk for asthmatics and eczema sufferers and can cause severe headaches and hyperactivity in children. Found in everything from eyeshadow to shampoo.

Fluoride: An acute toxin with a poison rating higher than lead. Fluoride is found in most mainstream toothpaste – added for it’s dental benefits. Fluoride used in water fluoridation is a toxic waste product from the fertiliser industry. It is the most bone-seeking element known to man. It has been linked to health problems such as brittle bones, osteoporosis and (incredibly) porous dental enamel. In hypersensitive people fluoride also causes eczema, gastric distress, headaches and weakness and has been linked to genetic damage, including cancer, and hyperactivity and attention deficit disorder in children. Conflicting world-wide studies have shown fluoridated water has no dental benefits or possibly some dental benefits!

Fragrance: mostly synthetic ingredients, can indicate the presence of up to four thousand separate ingredients, many toxic or carcinogenic. Symptoms reported include headaches, dizziness, allergic rashes, skin discoloration, violent coughing and vomiting, and skin irritation. Clinical observation proves fragrances can affect the central nervous system, causing depression, hyperactivity, irritability, inability to cope, and other behavioural changes.

Isopropyl: This is a poisonous solvent and denaturant (alters the structure of other chemicals) and can be found in hand lotions, body rubs, hair colour rinses, fragrances and aftershave lotions. Isopropyl dries hair and skin, creates cracks and fissures in the skin, which encourages bacterial growth and can cause headaches, flushing, nausea, vomiting and depression.

LAURAMIDE DEA, Diethylolamine, Triethylolamine: partly natural, partly synthetic chemicals used to build lather and thicken various cosmetic products. Also used in dishwashing detergents for grease-cutting ability. Can be drying to the hair, cause skin and scalp itching and allergic reactions. Have been declared carcinogens.

Methyl and Propyl and Butyl and Ethyl Paraben: Used as inhibitors of microbial growth and to extend shelf life of products. Widely used even though they are known to be toxic. Have caused many allergic reactions and skin rashes. Methyl paraben combines benzoic acid with the methyl group of chemicals. Highly toxic.

Mineral Oil: petroleum by-product that coats the skin like plastic, clogging the pores. Interferes with skin's ability to eliminate toxins, promoting acne and other disorders. Slows down skin function and cell development, resulting in premature aging. Used in many products (baby oil is 100% mineral oil!)

Paraben: For many years, parabens were considered among those preservatives with low systemic toxicity, primarily causing allergic reactions. However, as we have become aware that some synthetic chemicals mimic the female hormone oestrogen, our understanding of the toxic effects of both synthetic and natural substances has changed. Now, researchers from the Department of Biology & Biochemistry, Brunel University, Uxbridge, Middlesex, have found that alkyl hydroxy benzoate preservatives (namely methyl-, ethyl-, propyl- and butylparaben) are weakly estrogenic (the presence of oestrogen in more and more products is thought to disrupt the male reproductive system).

Petrolatum: You will see this on lip products from time to time, which is amusing because they are usually advertised as protecting the lips from sunburn, chapping and so forth. Petrolatum is mineral oil jelly, and mineral oil causes problems when used on the skin photosensitivity (i.e., promotes sun damage), and it tends to interfere with the body's own natural moisturizing mechanism, leading to dry skin and chapping. Manufacturers use petrolatum because it is very cheap.

Polyethylene Glycol (PEG): potentially carcinogenic petroleum ingredient that can alter and reduce the skin's natural moisture factor. This could increase the appearance of aging and leave you more vulnerable to bacteria. Used in cleansers to dissolve oil and grease. It adjusts the melting point and thickens products. Also used in caustic spray-on oven cleaners.

Propylene Glycol (PG) and Butylene Glycol: gaseous hydrocarbons, which in a liquid state act as surfactants (wetting agents and solvents). They easily penetrate the skin and can weaken protein and cellular structure. Commonly used to make extracts from herbs. PG is strong enough to remove barnacles from boats! The EPA considers PG so toxic that it requires workers to wear protective gloves, clothing and goggles and to dispose of any PG solutions by burying them in the ground. Because PG penetrates the skin so quickly, the EPA warns against skin contact to prevent consequences such as brain, liver, and kidney abnormalities. But there isn't even a warning label on products such as deodorant sticks, where the concentration is greater than in most industrial applications.

PVP/VA Copolymer: A petroleum-derived chemical used in hairsprays, setting lotions and other cosmetics. It can be considered toxic, since particles may contribute to foreign bodies in the lungs of sensitive persons. Cancer suspect.

Sodium Chloride: (Salt - NaCI) Used to increase the viscosity in some cosmetics. Can cause eye and skin irritation if used in too high concentrations. It’s usually used to make a cheap, watery consistency product look thick and rich instead.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) & Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES): Detergents and surfactants that pose serious health threats. Used in car washes, garage floor cleaners and engine degreasers - and in 90% of personal-care products that foam. Animals exposed to SLS experience eye damage, depression, laboured breathing, diarrhoea, severe skin irritation, and even death. Young eyes may not develop properly if exposed to SLS because proteins are dissolved. SLS may also damage the skin's immune system by causing layers to separate and inflame. When combined with other chemicals, SLS can be transformed into nitrosamines, a potent class of carcinogens. Your body may retain the SLS for up to five days, during which time it may enter and maintain residual levels in the heart, liver, the lungs, and the brain. It is frequently disguised in pseudo-natural cosmetics with the parenthetic explanation ‘comes from coconut’.

Stearalkonium Chloride: A chemical used in hair conditioners and creams. Causes allergic reactions. Stearalkonium chloride was developed by the fabric industry as a fabric softener, and is a lot cheaper and easier to use in hair conditioning formulas than proteins or herbals. Toxic.

Talc: This is found in baby powders, face powders, body powders. Talc is a known carcinogen and is a major cause of ovarian cancer. It can be harmful if inhaled as it can lodge in the lungs, causing respiratory disorders.

Triclosan: a synthetic ‘antibacterial’ ingredient - with a chemical structure similar to Agent Orange! The EPA registers it as a pesticide, giving it high scores as a risk to both human health and the environment. It is classified as a chlorophenol, a class of chemicals suspected of causing cancer in humans. Its manufacturing process may produce dioxin, a powerful hormone-disrupting chemical with toxic effects measured in the parts per trillion; that is only one drop in 300 Olympic-size swimming pools! It can temporarily deactivate sensory nerve endings, so contact with it often causes little or no pain. Internally, it can lead to cold sweats, circulatory collapse, and convulsions. Stored in body fat, it can accumulate to toxic levels, damaging the liver, kidneys and lungs, and can cause paralysis, suppression of immune function, brain haemorrhages, and heart problems. It has a wide-spread use in popular antibacterial cleansers, tooth pastes and household products.

Triethanolamine: Often used in cosmetics to adjust the pH, and used with many fatty acids to convert acid to salt (stearate), which then becomes the base for a cleanser. TEA causes allergic reactions including eye problems, dryness of hair and skin, and could be toxic if absorbed into the body over a long period of time.